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When I was buying the Windrider from the shop, I asked about a trailer also. They wanted $750. dollars for a trailer that was 4 years old, rusty, and was making permanent indentations in the amas from the "V" shaped supports. This didn't sound like a good idea for me. I went two blocks down the road and bought a brand new jetski trailer with lights, bearing buddies, and bunks - that's more like it! Here are a couple of views of my final overall trailer setup. My bestest admiral made the mast/sailcover. The mast is supported at 3 points with the lower portion (about 4-5ft) unsupported, hanging over the rudder post.
The first thing I needed to do was set the bunks up for the main hull. The original brackets were too short (4in) to allow the keel to easily get over the crossbar in the back. I found some 10in risers and replaced the original 4in ones with those - easy job. I set them up so the hull was just level and so that the keel JUST cleared the back cross beam. I knew that I'd be scraping up the keel on that rear beam, so I added a roller to protect it as I was loading and unloading. This also helps the loading process by allowing the boat to both pivot and roll at that point. I think that the bunks are a better supporting system for the hull than those "V" shaped things on the factory trailer, except that there isn't much side-to-side support. So a good set of tie-downs is needed to keep the hull centered and upright.
Next I went to work on the amas. I preferred to have them upside down so that 1) the hatches were protected from both sun and rain and 2) the flat(ish) surface was better for having them sit still on the trailer frame. I set them on the trailer that way, and then looked at them to see what I could do to make them stay there. Forward, I threaded a long galvanized carriage bolt through a standard flat rubber trailer roller. I drilled and bolted it to the top edge of the trailer "C" frame. This would keep the forward ends from sliding outward. At the back, I bent some thin (1/4in, I think) threaded rod to form a giant "U" bolt and then, before attaching it to the trailer, put some heavy duty rubber fuel hose over the threaded part. The connector tube then drops into this ring and keeps the back end from moving around. So, now, as long as the amas are held DOWN, they shouldn't move side-to-side or forward and back. Again, a good tie-down mechanism is in order. At all of the contact points, I slit lengthwise, some HEAVY marine rubber hose and slid it onto the "C" channel so that there were no boat-to-metal contact points. It seemed to grip the channel pretty good. We'll see how it holds up in the sun, etc.
Next I needed was a way to support the mast. I used a treated piece of 2x6 lumber and found some galvanized brackets at Lowes that are used for assembling boat docks.   Some carefully drilled holes, galvanized carriage bolts and a few trailer "U" bolts and it was put all together. I measured the diameter of the mast, and cut a semicircle in the top of the 2x6. I glued and attached a strip of bunk carpet to that to protect the mast. I have a 1.5hp cruise N carry that I mounted to the front of the board for trailering. I made a mount with some leftover Starboard and a couple more galvanized brackets bolted together in an "S" shape. On the back of the bolts holding the motor mount to the 2x6, I used some leftover small brackets and a bolt to make a place to tie off the bow and hold the mast down. Lower down, and in-line with the bow, I put a standard rubber trailer stop for the nose of the boat to touch.
Then I needed a mid-support for the mast. This is made from PVC pipe. The 2 inch pipe goes all the way down the center and rests at the very bottom of the mast step, inside the boat. The connector (reducer) piece is made to join 2in pipe with 3in pipe. The 3in part (kind of like a skirt) goes OVER the mast tube to prevent water from coming in around the 2in support piece. I had to grind out the lip inside the reducer so that the 2in pipe could go all the way through to the bottom of the boat. On top is a pipe cap. I used a threaded connector first, though, so I could "adjust" the level of the support (I wasn't THAT confident of my pipe-length measurements). On top of the cap is a regular "V" shaped bow stop to cradle the mast.
The last job I had to get done right away was to make a cover for the cockpit. I wanted something that would keep water out, would lock, and would serve as the final suport point for the mast. This is what I ended up with. It's not pretty, but it meets all of the above criteria. I got some 1/4in plastic bendy stuff from a local plastics shop for the main cover. It is supposed to be UV stable. It had to be flexible, because my attaching and removal strategy required a little bending of the cover to allow the wooden "hooks" to clear the rim of the cockpit. I wanted a single locking point to lock it on, so I made this cross-beam thing and back piece to "hook" under the cockpit rim and "twist" into place. The crosspiece on the bottom is mounted diagonal to allow just the right amount of twist of the whole top, to turn it lengthwise enough that it can be removed. Then, all the latch/lock had to do was basically keep the top from rotating. (kind of hard to explain - maybe the pictures help) I put a stainless eyebolt with a big backing plate in front of the latch to be able to lock it down. I made sure this was at a point LOWER than the line that the mainsheet took coming out of the cam cleat. I put the mast cradle on the top side of the cover. It adds some stiffness to the otherwise thin, flexible plastic. Again, bunk carpet. The black stuff around the edge is rubber garage door wheatherstripping. I have since taken it off - it just got in the way..
I think I have a better system now, easier to launch and easier on the boat!